Morning Begin at San Crisogno : ask the custodian to let you into the excavations downstairs. By 10am be at San Francesco a Ripe for the five minutes it takes to see Bernini’s stunning sculpture. Trastevere is one of the … Continue reading
Hadrian’s Temple Eleven huge, worn columns still stand from a Temple to Hadrian built in AD 145 by his son. Piazza di Pletra 9A. Santa Maria Maddalena The church is an elliptical Baroque gem. The 1735 facade by Giuseppe Sardi … Continue reading
Hadrian’s Temple Eleven huge, worn columns still stand from a Temple to Hadrian built in AD 145 by his son. Santa Maria Maddalena The church is an elliptical Baroque gem. The 1735 facade by Giuseppe Sardi is Rome’s best Rococo … Continue reading
Villa Farnesina A little gem of gracious living, decorated by some of the greatest artists of the Renaissance, including Raphael. The loggias are now glassed in to protect the precious frescoes, but they were originally open, embodying the ideal of … Continue reading
Caravaggio’s Deposition Caravaggio strove to outdo Michelangelo’s Pieta by making his Mary old and tired. Rather than a slender slip of a Christ, Caravaggio’s muscular Jesus is so heavy (emphasized by a diagonal composition) that Nicodemus struggles with his legs … Continue reading
Piazza Navona The elongated oval of Rome’s loveliest square hints that it is built atop Domitian’s o ancient stadium . This pedestrian paradise is filled with cafés, street performers and artists, milling tourists, kids playing football, and splashing fountains. Bernini … Continue reading
Few churches are such perfect primers on Roman art and architecture. Masters from the Early Renaissance (Pinturicchio, Bramante), High Renaissance (Raphael) and Baroque (Caravaggio, Bernini) exercised their genius in all disciplines here: painting, sculpture, architecture and decoration. It’s also one … Continue reading
The Borghese Gallery is one of the world’s greatest small museums. A half dozen of Bernini’s best sculptures and Caravaggio paintings casually occupy the same rooms as Classical, Renaissance and Neo-Classical works. The setting is the beautiful frescoed 17th-century villa … Continue reading
When Emperor Phocas donated this pagan temple to Pope Boniface IV in 608, he unwittingly ensured that one of the marvels of ancient Rome would be preserved, virtually unaltered, in its new guise as the Christian church Santa Maria ad … Continue reading
Pieta Michelangelo carved this masterpiece in 1499 at the age of 25. It is at once graceful and mournful, stately and ethereal. It has been protected by glass since 1972, when a man screaming “I am Jesus Christ!” attacked it … Continue reading
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